The Crossing--Cadiz, Spain

Cadiz turns out to be another wonderful surprise among the places we have not previously visited. A major port city of Spain, it was home to the Spanish fleet when ol' Christopho Colombo was exploring the New World out of here. Founded in 1100BC they claim it is the oldest continuously inhabited city in the Western world! One would not know it today, it doesn't look a day over 400!


During the 18th Century, (the 1700's to those of us who are century challenged) it was the center for European trade with the New World and therefor became the wealthiest port in Western Europe. Cadiz has a plethora of Cathedrals built from that era and is exceptionally Catholic. We arrived on Saturday in Holy Week and it has had incredible all saints "parades" daily through the small passage ways of the old city to individual cathedrals...all lined with viewing stands which carry a steep price for a seat. How Catholic is it?

We were on a walking tour of the old city and stopped in front of the City Hall and a lady asked why all the flags were at half mast? The guide replied quite matter of fact "Jesus Christ died Friday". No separation of city and church in Cadiz.

The old city is quite vibrant with modern boutiques side by side with old style fish mongers. The streets are very clean and exceptionally well maintained by city workers. It is still a residential city with apartments above all the merchants and parks sprinkled in among all the commerce.

It has an amazing central market with small individuals stalls combining to create a huge market featuring fresh (even live) fish, beautiful vegetable displays, meats, cheeses and flowers. On our Saturday morning it was teeming with shoppers. Other individual free lancing vendors crowded the perimeter of the official city market. Quite a scene.











The Seven Seas Mariner docked in the city center so we simply disembarked and immediately walked throughout the old city following one of four lines painted on the streets to mark tours with individual themes for "cathedrals", "forts and bastions", "panoramic sea front" or "historic monuments". Just follow the blue, purple, yellow or red line. Now that is a chamber of commerce at work...and the lines we followed were great! Cadiz has it all: history, charm, good food and clean streets! Click on the photos for a closer look.



Lee

The Crossing-Funchal, Madeira Islands

Funchal is a definite WOW rising dramatically out of the Atlantic to an elevation of over 6000 feet. Natural ampitheaters, deep ravines, seaside cliffs and lush vegetation are Funchal features. It is a botanical marvel. Or maybe I was awestruck by any sight of land after 5 days at sea! Funchal is the capital city of the Madeiras a chain of six islands of which only two are inhabited. The other four are protected UNESCO nature preserves visited by permit only.

Funchal was "discovered" by Capt Zarco in 1421 when he shipwrecked on what is now Porto Santo, the other inhabited island in the Madeiras. He christened it Porto Santo (the Saints Port ) because it saved his bananas. He declared the Madeiras territory of the Portugese King. Today it is an autonomous region of Portugal. (Would there be any Atlantic resort islands today if there had not been shipwrecks?)


Christopho Columob resided in Funchal while exploring the New World. He and the Santa Maria are still using the Funchal harbor as their home port alongside the assorted cruise ships. The Madeira wine has extended his longevity. "Care for some Madeira, my dear a?"




Funchal is now the capital city (since 1508) with a robust economy and 110,000 of the total 180,000 residents in the Madeiras. The economy is based on tourism and agricultural exports for the most part. It has a high level of development all along the southern coast which stretches roughly 25 miles.


The development is sprinkled precariously up the mountains from the coastal harbors and provides some of the most dramatic vistas of the city and the Atlantic one can find anywhere. The hillsides are covered with a mix of modern condominiums, private homes, small hotels and ancient homes dating back centuries. The city is a beautiful mix of historic and modern and features many wonderful botanical gardens about the city center.



The Portugese defended the original walled city with four forts with the waterfront fort shown here:









Only 5 weeks ago there was a catastrophic storm which created massive flooding and mud and rock slides down the mountain sides into downtown Funchal. There were over 500 homes destroyed and more than 50 deaths. The island has done a heroic and herculean clean up in this short time. While we saw plenty of evidence of the flood (the shops in the old town had mud and water marks at the 6 feet level) the streets were all cleared the sidewalks all cleaned the the island roads all restored to service. There is now a new land fill on the waterfront of about 5 acres where all the rocks and silt that came down into the city was deposited. There was great urgency to do so since the cruise season is now underway. In our 36 hours in Funchal we had 5 other cruise ships enter and depart the harbor.

Our time there was short but it is an enchanting island and a favorite for mountain hiking with many trails traversing the mountain sides. It is one Sally and I want to visit again on our own, much more interesting than Bermuda.

The Crossing-At Sea

Ok so how does one spend 5 consecutive days on the Atlantic traversing from Bermuda to Funchal, Madiera Islands on a dead 90 degree heading averaging 20.4 mph, 24 hours per day,2800 miles in all? Fortunately we have had moderate weather averaging 62 degrees, some overcast days, some broken cloud days; seas have been moderate averaging 6 to 10 foot swells. Even at that the ship has a slight rocking motion which produces an occasional stagger; a great cover for too much time spent in the cocktail lounges.

The cruise staff maintains excellent communications via a closed circuit telecast in the cabins previewing all the entertainment events, informative lectures, lounge acts, dancing lessons, computer lessons,shore excursions plus video tours of the bridge and engine rooms by the captain for the wrench heads. In addition there is a bulletin on ones' door each morning with an hour by hour description of all the options. No excuse for cabin fever.

Entertainment is provided via several methods. The main acts are provided by a PGT a theatrical production company who recruit and assign all talent to the cruises. We have a company of four singers and four dancers. They provide full musical review acts as well as solo productions by solo singers. I attended a "meet the cast" session and there are three from the US, three from England, and two from the Ukraine. They are all graduates of dance or music conservatories in New York or London.The two Ukrainians had attended dance academy since age 3. They work on a contract to remain aboard for 6-9 months. One fabulous artist has done this for seven year! They take 2-3 months between contracts. Injuries, sea sickness and general boredom result in a high turnover.

In addition to the production company there are performers who are direct hires of the Regent who do lounge acts or solo acts in the main theatre. We have "singing puppeteer", an assistant cruise director who does a singing act, a Polish lounge act and five Napa Valley wine producers on board for this cruise who give wine pairing lectures but also have a cover band called Private Reserve.



They have been a great hit on board for their wine pairings as well as their playing in various informal venues. One is the grandson of Louis Martini, the others are smaller vinters. There wines have also been served on board occasionally.


There are seven public decks on the Mariner reached via two stair cases or two elevator banks...one placed in the open atrium forward in the ship the other aft. Here is the atrium elevator bank:












There are four cocktail lounges, shown below are the Observation Lounge up on the bow on Deck 12 with a panorama view forward and the Horizion Lounge on Deck 6 with a panorama view off the stern. Both feature lounge music and singers at various times of the day.










There are five dining areas on board ranging from the poolside grill to elegant dining in the Compass Rose room or two intimate dining rooms by reservation only. Here is a photo of the Compass Rose for open dining and the Prime 7 steak house by reservation.









Add the fitness center, the Swedish sauna, the pool and the hot tubs to all the above and that is how you spend five days on the Atlantic ocean.

The Crossing-Bermuda

We arrived in Bermuda around 8:30AM Thursay March 25 for a stay for the day. Bermuda to my surprise is really a chain of islands or archipelago of 138 islands, some no larger than my MINI Cooper. Captain Juan Bermudez discovered Bermuda in 1503 but the action started when Capt George Somers a British mariner suffered damages on the reefs in what is now St. Georges Island and declared Bermuda a British colony. Today it is a British protectorate but fully governed through the Bermuda Parliament and nine parishes at the community level. The Parliament Building sits right on Front St where the S.S. Mariner docked:


Security for the Bermuda government officials was quite relaxed as I was able to walk the grounds and enter the Parliament building without seeing any security guards. I was even able to photograph the VW belonging to the Chief Justice sitting in his personal car port. The Opposition Leader was provided a parking spot out on the lawn! Seems the bipartisan spirit is in tatters everywhere.






If you click on either photo you can read
the parking spot placard. Seems one could leave a pipe bomb message without much effort.



We spent about 4 hours touring the city of Hamilton, St Georges Island where Bermuda was founded and the Island waterfront along 5 parishes. It is a spectacular setting with all the small bays and inlets plus the ocean waterfront.

We lunched on Bermuda chowder at this St. Georges waterfront bistro. One could adjust chowder with either a sweet rum or highly spicy vinegar. It is a beautiful quaint waterfront spot.




Bermuda has an exceptionally high living standard and at last count had the highest GDP per capita of any economy in the world. It creates its wealth by hosting over 4000 financial service and insurance firms based on a favorable tax and legal climate. Bermuda has passed through 5 phases of development since its founding in 1610: salt harvesting, farming, shipbuilding, tourism and now financial services. Our guide claimed they introduced potatoes to the US. So who introduced us to the Bermuda onion?

The two islands are scattered with spectacular homes for such celebrities as H Ross Perot, Michael Bloomberg, Italian Premier Bertolosconi and of course Michael Douglas born in Bermuda. I shot a few waterfront photos as we sailed out of Hamilton Harbor:


Again if you click on either photo you can get a closer look at your future Bermuda home.





Our next stop is Funchal, Madiera Islands. Directions are simple: turn right outside the Harbor, go directly east for 2500 miles and turn left into the Funchal Harbor! Our 90 degree heading has only varied a degree or so for the last two days. We will be at sea for five days before arriving at Funchal at 8AM on March 31.

More from Funchal.

Lee

The Crossing- Seven Seas Mariner

An avid reader asked about our stateroom so I will give a little info on the Mariner. The ship measures 709 feet long with a 93 foot beam. It displaces 48000 tons which "back in the day" was a normal size ocean liner. No more, as I described in a prior post the latest behemoth "Oasis of the Seas" displaces 220,000 tons and has a passenger capacity of 5400.

The Mariner has capacity for 700 passengers, there are 575 on board now, the crew totals 445 so the ratio is 1 crew per 1.6 passengers. There are eight passenger decks, 5 restaurants ranging from an outdoor grill and bar on the pool deck to Le Cordon Bleu Signatures restaurant and Prime 7 a steakhouse, these require reservations but there are no charges for any. There is a large coffee house and library, the Constellation theater, Stars night club, the Observation bar and lounge, the Mariner bar and lounge, a Casino and two botiques. There are assorted other public rooms for cards, reading, whatever. All the ship is beautifully done in natural stone, teak, glass and chrome.

The Mariner is an all suite, all balcony ship with suites ranging in size from 350 sq ft to 2000 sq ft. We have a standard size suite on deck 7 which includes a granite bath with a walk in full bench shower, a full walk in closet













a king size bed, a sitting area with a sofa, chair, built in desk and TV










and a balcony with two chairs and a table.













Still no boredom on day 2 1/2 at sea. Today started with several fitness class options, then a lecture on using puts and calls for monthly income, a wine class demonstrating how food enhancers impact wines, followed by a lecture "going behind the scenes at White House state dinners by a former military aide to several Presidents, then a choice of a blackjack tourney or a bingo contenst! I opted for the salt water pool and hot tubs on a great sunny day. Sally just returned from her yoga class.

Bermuda tomorrow.

The Crossing

We are about 500 miles out from Florida with 350 miles or so to go to reach our first stop in Bermuda. So what does one do at sea.

There are many options. The Mariner has a more than adequate fitness center along with a sauna and it offers classes for spinning, pilates, free weights, etc. There is a complete Spa operated by Canyon Ranch. There were classes throughout the day starting with art collecting at 10AM, a cooking class at 11AM a lecture on Bermuda at 3PM and high tea at 4:30PM! Last night at 6PM we had a block party which entails going out in the hallway for wine and cheese to meet our neighbors. This crossing seems to have more Europeans aboard than most Regent cruises. We are mostly old with a few youngsters mixed in. I noticed two small children under 6. Must be hard to entertain them for 18 days.

I spent my time starting at the fitness center then visited the pool and hot tubs on deck 11 while the sun was shining:










There are two personality types around the ships' pool: the readers













and the soakers:










See you in Bermuda!

Lee

The Crossing

Well we are aboard the Seven Seas Mariner in Ft Lauderdale awaiting departure for our first stop in Hamilton, Bermuda. Port Everglades where we are moored at the moment is the largest cruise port in the world hosting 14 individual cruise lines and processing over 3 million passengers per year through its piers. It is home to the newest, largest cruise ship in the world Oasis of the Seas a 220,000 ton ship with a 5400 passenger capacity and measuring well over 1000 ft in length! Our little Mariner with around 500 passengers looks like a pilot fish along side the Oasis.

We boarded around 1 pm through a security process much like the airports. Document check followed by x-ray checks and then a health screen prior to ship check in. They only screened for a runny nose or loose bowels! Heart attacks must be acceptable at sea. Interesting to watch the ship being re provisioned for our voyage across the Atlantic. Every pallet brought on board was checked by a sniffing dog...who was hopefully in good form.

Our luggage came aboard after X ray screening via this large basket. It was placed in our room by 4PM just in time for us to "muster" for our lifeboat drill.








We exited via the port channel and dropped our harbor pilot off on his boat while making 20knots... like a grab and go Somalia pirate.









Weather is 69 deg, mostly overcast, but improving and seas are 10 feet. The ship does a slight rock like a baby's cradle.

The Mariner is truly living in the lap of luxury. The Regent line is an all inclusive cruise line covering air fare, all excursions, food, adult beverages and has a no tipping policy. My wallet went into the drawer and will not come out until we reach Monte Carlo.

More later.

Rapid Robert-the Heater from Van Meter!

Bob Feller has to be the most memorable of all the '48 Indians (it is easy to remember him because he is still making news). Feller is 90 years old and recently announced he would like to be the starting pitcher at the annual Hall of Fame old timers game which will include youngsters like hitting whiz Robin Yount. Feller indicated he has been practicing in his driveway with his grandson and feels he can still bring it. It reminded me of a comment Feller made in Cleveland Plain Dealer interview in 1985: "I can still throw in the seventies and I throw it in the eighties if I don't want to comb my hair for a week"!

It is daunting to try to summarize Bob Feller with words. He is ranked 36th on the list of the 100 best all time major leaguers, he is a decorated war veteran who volunteered for the Navy one day after Pearl Harbor (he was the first major league baseball player to do so), he is outspoken and direct and has created numerous media controversies, he is sentimental about his farm origins and operates several tractors on his Gates Mills farm collected from the '30s era, he is an active learner reading daily and once counseled Condolezza Rice on how to conduct the Iraq war.

Feller was born on a farm near Van Meter Iowa in November 1918. He says he learned to pitch throwing against the barn. His fastball was clocked in the technology of the time at 98 mph but many say it would have topped 102mph with today's methodology. He was signed at age 17 (by our man Cy Slapnika) between his junior and senior year in high school and reported directly to the Indians. In his first start he struck out 15 St Louis Browns. He later struck out 17 the same year and was the first pitcher to strike out his age (17 at 17) until Kerry Wood (an Indian reliever today) struck out 20 at age 20. He was so dominant in his early career he had notched 107 wins by age 23. On December 8, 1941 three weeks after turning 23 and one day after Pearl Harbor he volunteered for the Navy. He reported immediately and spent four years aboard the USS Alabama as an anti aircraft gunner.

Feller spent his entire 18 year major league career with the Indians. He finished with 266 victories and 2581 strikeouts. He is 12th in major league career pitching victories. Most baseball analysts estimate he would have won 350 games and struck out 3500 if he had spent those prime years as a major league pitcher. Feller comments on this simply "you can't saw sawdust"! His pitching achievements include 3 no hitters including the only Opening Day (1940) no hitter to this day. He had 12 career one hitters and pitched 279 complete games. It would take an entire roster of pitchers today to match his complete game record.

A statue of Feller stands at the entrance to Jacobs Field, the Indians ball park in Cleveland. Feller is pleased with it although he made a couple of revisions to it during the sculpting: he had his grip changed from a two seam fastball to a four seamer ("I always threw a four seamer") and he had a tin of snuff removed from his back pocket ("I never used that stuff").

I visited the Indians spring training center in Tucson in the late 80's and Feller was an annual participant. He played catch and roamed the fields engaging fans and regaling anyone within earshot with his commentary on his playing days. I thought at the time he was a bit of a bore but as I have researched more of his post career doings I respect his directness and feel he has earned the right to share his opinions. He does his homework and he lives true to a set of values that formed on the farm in Van Meter. They have not been bent by success or political correctness. He does not make claims that are not based on fact and he has not carried his on the field success over to general invincibility. He may be a bit self absorbed but who among us would not be with this track record!

His Hall of Fame citation is reprinted below:

The Hall of Famers (Cooperstown Hall of Fame)

Robert William Feller

Born: November 3, 1918, Van Meter, IA

Bats: R Throws: R

Played for: Cleveland Indians (1936-1941, 1945-1956)

Elected to Hall of Fame by Baseball Writers: 1962

150 votes of 160 ballots cast (93.75%)

View Pitching Stats

ERA	W	L	PCT	G	IP	SO	BB	SV
3.25	266	162	.621	570	3828.0	2581	1764

Biography

Bob Feller's blazing fastball set the standard against which all of his successors have been judged. Rapid Robert spent his entire 18-year career with Cleveland, amassing 266 victories and 2,581 strikeouts, while leading the league in strikeouts seven times. He missed nearly four full seasons in his prime serving his country during World War II, for which he was decorated with five campaign ribbons studded with eight battle stars. Fresh from high school, Feller struck out 17 Athletics in 1936. The fireballer authored three no-hitters and 12 one-hitters while winning 20 or more games six times.

Quotes

“It wasn't until you hit against him that you knew how fast he really was, until you saw with your own eyes that ball jumping at you.”
— Ted Lyons

Lou Boudreau-Boy Manager!

A profile of the '48 Indians has to start with Lou Boudreau. Lou's career with the Indians stretched from 1939 to 1950; most remarkably he served as player-manager from November 1941 until he was released by the Indians in 1950. He was known as "Boy Manager" since he was barely 25 when appointed to the position. Player-managers were rather common in the early 1900's but Lou was among a few to fill the role in modern baseball and by far the most successful on the field and as a manager. It is difficult to grasp in today's baseball world how one person could be an All Star shortstop 8 times while making all the roster decisions, pitching rotations and game day decisions on the line up, defensive positioning, pitching changes, offensive maneuvers and baiting he umpires! Lou did this for 9 years leading the Indians to the '48 World Series championship and earning major league MVP for the year!


Boudreau was a high achiever early in life. He graduated from the University of Illinois where he captained the baseball and basketball teams. The Big Ten suspended Boudreau from intercollegiate play in his last two years when it was learned Cy Slapnicka (what a name) the Indians GM of the time had made payments to Boudreau while a student to insure he would become an Indian after graduation. Nevertheless Boudreau finished his schooling while playing professional basketball on the side. Slapnicka's money was well invested though when Boudreau reported in 1938 to Cedar Rapids , an Indians farm team.

Boudreau was a great team leader and shortstop. He was finished in the top 10 or better in MVP voting eight times between 1940 and 1950. He had a lifetime .295 batting average but his greatest season was in 1948 when he batted .355, hit 18 homers and batted in 106 rbis . He led the Indians in batting average, on base %, slugging average, doubles, runs and base on balls! And he did all that while managing the team through a 154 game season, a one game playoff win and a six game World Series championship. As a manager he is credited with inventing the Ted Williams shift in which he positioned himself to the right of second base and challenged Williams to hit through the hole. He was also credited with changing Bob Lemon from a third baseman to an all star Hall of Fame pitcher.

Boudreau had limited range as a shortstop and only an average arm but he knew hitters and positioned himself well to make the plays. His chronic ankle problems resulted in a 4F deferment from service in WWII so some of his career statistics were likely aided by the watered down level of play in those years. This may have slowed his entry into the Hall of Fame. He slipped over the 75% ballot approval required only after his 10th year on the ballot in 1970.

Boudreau's performance declined rather quickly after 1948. By 1950 he was fired as manager and released as a player by Bill Veeck. He signed with the Red Sox for two seasons and became their manager in '52-'54. He managed the Kansas City Royals from '55 to '57. In 1958 he became the Chicago Cubs announcer and filled that role for 29 years retiring in 1989.

Lou's son Jim Boudreau pitched in the minor leagues for five years reaching the AA level. His daughter Sharyn married pitcher Denny McLain who won 31 games for the Detroit Tigers in 1968 but has since served two prison terms for financial missteps.

Lou Boudreau died in 2001 at age 83 of cardiac arrest. Perhaps Bob Feller who always calls it like he sees it summed up Lou Boudreau best: "He was the greatest shortstop I ever saw. He was afraid of nobody. He was a great manager, teammate and friend. Just a great man. There is not a more gracious man than Lou Boudreau."-Bob Feller

Sources: Wikipedia, baseball-reference.com, NY Times, Bob Feller Museum, et. al.





The Hall of Famers:

Louis Boudreau

Born: July 17, 1917, Harvey, IL

Died: August 10, 2001, Olympia Fields, IL

Bats: R Throws: R

Played for: Cleveland Indians (1938-1950), Boston Red Sox (1951-1952)

Elected to Hall of Fame by Baseball Writers: 1970

232 votes of 300 ballots cast (77.33%)

AVG	G	AB	R	H	HR	RBI	SB	SLG
.295	1646	6029	861	1779	68	789	51	.415

Cleveland Indians 1948 World Series

The Cleveland Indians finally reached the World Series in 1948, 28 years after their first appearance in the 1920. The Indians entered the World Series only after winning a one game playoff against the Boston Red Sox. Gene Bearden a knuckle ball throwing southpaw was the hero in the playoff pitching a complete game in Fenway winning 8-3 for his 20th victory in his rookie season! (Here is a gripping description of the one game playoff.)

With three games remaining in the season the Indians held a 1 game lead over the Yankees and a 2 game lead over the Red Sox. Unfortunately the Indians dropped 2 out of 3 to the Tigers while the Red Sox swept the Yankees in their three games resulting in a season ending tie between the Indians and Red Sox with the Yankees ending up two games out. The NYTimes referred to the race as "the most exciting flag struggle in the history of the junior circuit".

The Indians had finished 1947 in 4th place, 17 games behind the Yankees although they had a respectable 80-74 won lost record. The 1948 Indians improved to 97 wins and 58 losses primarily due to stronger pitching and a big improvement in power hitting. Bob Lemon and Bearden the rookie each won 20 games and Bob Feller won 19. Lemon won 20 in his first season after being switched from a outfielder to a pitcher in '48. The biggest pitching story of the year though may have been when Bill Veeck the Indians owner signed Satchell Paige, an aging Negro League star to a contract on July 7. Paige at 42 years and 2 days was the oldest rookie ever to appear in the major leagues. Paige finished out the year pitching in front of crowds routinely exceeding 70,000 going 6-1 with a 2.48 ERA, 2 shutouts and 43 strikeouts in 71 innings pitched.

The Indians improved offense was led by shortstop Lou Boudreau's .355 batting average, 18 home runs and 106 rbis all while acting as player-manager! Joe Gordon the 33 year old second baseman hit 32 homers with 124 rbis and Kenny Keltner the third baseman had 31 homers and 119 rbis. Some production from 4, 5 and 6 on the scorecard!

Larry Doby the new centerfielder was also noteworthy because he was the first black player in the American League following Jackie Robinson in the National League. He proved to be a very fine ceterfielder and productive hitter with a .301 batting average, 14 home runs and 66 rbi in his first full season.

The Indians prevailed against the Braves winning the series in six games. The Braves featured pitching lead by Warren Spahn and Johnny Sain ("Spahn, Sain and pray for rain") Cleveland was a deeper with Lemon, Feller, Bearden and Steve Gromek. Feller the Cleveland ace lost both games despite throwing a 2 hitter in the first game, but Lemon won 2, Bearden 1 and Gromek 1 plus a save from the ever present Bearden. Satchell Paige entered as a reliever in game 5 and was thus the first black pitcher in World Series history. Game 5 also set an all time World Series attendance record in Cleveland with 86,288 in cavernous Municipal Stadium.

Notable reserves for the Indians who went on to productive Indian careers were Al Rosen, Ray Boone, Bob Kennedy and pitcher Mike Garcia. Johnny Berardino was a reserve infielder who played all four positions in 1948 but is most distinctive for being the only person ever to play in a World Series and earn a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame! Berardino attended USC and had many movie credits but earned his chops as Dr. Steve Hardy appearing on the soap General Hospital for 33 years from 1963 to 1996!

Now on to profiles of individual Indians and how they moved on after the great 1948 World Series.